Fashion
Simon Porte Jacquemus has always worn his heritage proudly, and for his Fall 2025 ready-to-wear collection, “Le Paysan” (The Peasant), he dug even deeper into his Provençal roots. Staged in the grand yet raw Orangerie of the Palace of Versailles—a symbolic homecoming after his 2023 show in the same estate—the presentation was both a love letter to his family’s agricultural past and a bold statement of his couture aspirations.
A Personal Ode to the Past
The collection’s title was more than thematic—it was deeply autobiographical. On Instagram, Jacquemus revealed his connect with old family photographs, particularly those of his grandparents working the land. “I wanted to pay homage to the past to create something new for the future,” he said. “This show is a thank you to them.”
Social media teasers set the tone, juxtaposing nostalgic shots of his family harvesting crops with modern runway interpretations—think headscarves, crisp cottons, and linen dresses that mirrored the practical yet poetic attire of rural life. Even the show’s location, the Orangerie, subtly nodded to his agricultural lineage, with vegetable motifs woven throughout.
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Couture Meets Countryside
Jacquemus has long flirted with couture techniques, and this collection sharpened that vision. The opening look—a deceptively simple shirt dress—was elevated with a voluminous, gathered underskirt, merging his early minimalist aesthetic with grander, more sculptural forms.
Full-skirted silhouettes dominated nearly 70% of the lineup, evoking the mastery of mid-century couturiers—but with a subversive twist. Many designs appeared ladylike from the front, only to reveal unfinished backs, cleverly balanced by longline tops. The humble poplin cotton, a staple of his mother and grandmother’s wardrobes, was reimagined in geometric constructions: smock dresses, ovoid blazers, and striped tunics that felt both nostalgic and avant-garde.
Yet, Jacquemus didn’t abandon his brand’s sensuality. Delicate batwing chiffon gowns and tulle halters floated alongside structured aprons and leather pieces shaped like Callisons (almond-based French sweets), proving that rustic inspiration could still feel luxurious.
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Strategic Timing & Star-Studded Front Row
Presenting on the last day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week—just before couture season—was a strategic masterstroke. It ensured maximum press attention without competing with the fatigue of womenswear month. The gamble paid off, with a front row including Matthew McConaughey (who quipped, “I’m a father, not a king”), Camila Alves, Aya Nakamura, and Emma Roberts, who boldly paired a tutu with a chunky black sweater.
The Emotional Finale
The show’s most poignant moment came when a young boy—echoing Jacquemus’ own childhood dreams—opened the runway door, ushering in models who clutched straw hats and leather pouches resembling leeks. It was a tender reminder of the designer’s journey: from a boy stitching curtains into skirts to a visionary reshaping French fashion.
With “Le Paysan,” Jacquemus didn’t just revisit his past—he redefined it, proving that the most personal stories often make the boldest fashion statements. And as the couture world watches, one thing is clear: there’s always room for fresh blood, and Jacquemus is ready to claim his place.
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Images: Supplied & Featured Image: Supplied
