Fashion
Emirates Woman speaks to Pierre Rainero, Image, Style and Heritage Director at Cartier to discuss the design philosophies behind the maison‘s new miniaturised watch variations.
Tell us about your role as Director of Image, Style, and Heritage?
I think the main aspect of this title revolves around style because it’s at the core of my responsibilities. On the heritage side, my role is to extract the components, the reasoning, and the philosophy behind the vision of our founders in terms of style. It involves understanding how this vision has evolved in the past and projecting it into the present and future. I also work closely with the creation studios, collaborating with the designers and creators to guide and share insights about the Cartier style.
What was the idea behind the new mini watches collection, and how does it represent Cartier’s style and DNA?
There are different aspects to answering this question. First, there is, of course, an aesthetic element. We are always striving to create beautiful objects that are not only visually appealing but also relevant to the way people live today. This relevance is critical; our objects should be chosen not just for their beauty but also because they are meant to be worn and enjoyed as often as possible. In terms of philosophy, Cartier has always sought to bring elegance into the various gestures and moments of life. The idea of a tiny watch – an object that is neither intrusive nor overwhelming on the wearer’s wrist – embodies a pursuit of elegance. In terms of creation, it’s very Cartier to work on an existing shape. We believe the shapes created at Cartier have an incredible power that allows for variations without betraying the original concept. For example, with the Baignoire or Tank watches, it is not merely about reducing the size but about re-creating. The proportions must be meticulously reworked to retain the spirit of the original design while adapting it to a smaller, specific size. This approach reflects several aspects of Cartier’s identity: the strength of an initial idea, the relevance of our designs to contemporary lifestyles, and the constant reworking and refining of that idea, even when the original concept remains intact.
What makes something a truly iconic timepiece?
I think, ultimately, the decision of what is iconic lies with the clients, generation after generation. It is not something you can declare when introducing a new object. Instead, an iconic status emerges through enduring desirability over time. What we can do and what we strive for, is to create and to design. And shapes, inherently, contain possibilities to remain desirable in the future, whether in their original forms, or containing some variations, but always staying faithful to the original idea. This philosophy explains why so many Cartier watches, even those created a century ago or decades ago, remain part of our collection and continue to resonate with clients. Their original designs inherently carry the capacity for long-term appeal.
Which is your favourite stand-out piece from the mini watches collection?
It’s very difficult to choose, I like them all equally! However, if I had to pick, I would say the mini Tank and the mini Baignoire. They are two very different pieces: the Baignoire is organic in design, while the Tank features strict geometry, softened by its rounded details. For me, these two shapes perfectly represent the essence of Cartier’s creative vision.
For those wanting to invest in and gift themselves their first watch, what should they be looking for?
First and foremost, it’s a question of taste. You should choose what you like and what resonates with you – whether it’s a particular shape or design. If you follow your instincts, you won’t regret your choice. The next consideration is how often you will wear it. It’s important that you have the opportunity to enjoy your watch regularly, as that is what we want: to see our creations being worn and appreciated by our clients. Every Cartier creation contains the fundamental elements of Cartier’s identity. For me, this is a guarantee of lasting value, especially if you loved the piece from the moment, you first saw it.
What is it about Cartier’s designs that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts across different generations?
I think it’s the originality of Cartier’s approach and the authenticity of what we do today, which remains aligned with the original vision of our founders – especially Louis Cartier, who elevated watchmaking to the prominence it enjoys today. The strength of our designs lies in their distinctive identity and our commitment to staying true to the values and vision of our heritage. This fidelity to our origins is what continues to attract the watch community.
There is a recent shift towards timepieces with unconventional case shapes. What do you think are the driving factors behind this?
It’s interesting to observe the growing interest in shaped watches, some- thing we at Cartier have always embraced. This vision has never wavered, as we view the wristwatch as an opportunity to create an elegant and precious object. In recent years, watchmaking has gone through a phase where technicality and the visibility of certain elements sometimes overshadowed the idea of elegance. Larger and more imposing timepieces gained popularity during this period. However, we are now witnessing a shift back to a focus on elegance. This return to elegance is particularly significant in men’s watches, as there was a time when elegance was perceived as being at odds with traditional notions of masculinity. Today, however, modern perceptions have evolved, and smaller watches are now considered perfectly aligned with male elegance.
